Journal

November 28, 2005
To Umahia And Back

Early last Tuesday morning myself and the other Lagos volunteers met in Yaba to catch a bus that
would take us to Wendy’s in Delta State and on to Umahia. We were there at 8am but our bus did
not depart till 11:30am, but other than the wait we were very lucky and had a very comfortable 10
seater and a safe driver. The road to Wendy’s was a mixture of really good, ok, and really bad.
The trip took about 5 hours and went very smoothly.

At Wendy’s we got a tour of her town which is a leaper colony. She works at the Sister’s of Charity
Hospital as a physiotherapist. Wendy arranged for us to have beans and rice for dinner then we
retired with mats on the floor of her house for the night. In the morning Nik & Christiana came with
a 14 seater bus to pick us up and we all headed to Umahia for the workshop.

VSO put on a 2 day workshop for all the volunteers in the South to explain their new HIV/AIDS
Workplace policy. Basically this explained how staff and volunteers living with HIV/AIDS will be
treated and supported. For example confidentiality, sick leave, providing ARVs, free testing and
counseling, etc. It was good to know VSO has such a comprehensive policy in place. They were
also encouraging us to use their policy as an opportunity to talk to our employers about HIV and
possibly creating a policy of their own to support the staff of the partner organizations we work
with. This is rather difficult though as many organizations do not even have a health plan let alone
would be ready to think about an HIV policy for their workplace. But overall we did get some good
ideas on how to start sensitizing our own workplaces n HIV/AIDS.

I hope to have a corner in my computer school with a couple of posters on HIV and free leaflets
and condoms that students can help themselves to. I will also take any opportunities that arrive to
talk to my staff and students about HIV and encourage them to use condoms and to get tested to
know their status.

The best part of the workshop was getting to meet more volunteers in the country and to see a few
of the vols that arrived with me that I have not seen since we departed Abuja. Overall volunteers
are just so great to talk to and easy to make friends with. I feel like I came away from Umahia with
at least 10 new friends. It’s also great to share stories and coping strategies about our
experiences. Many of the vols who arrived in my intake are struggling with their placements. The
first few months are usually quite hard as your expectations collide with reality and you are
learning to adapt to life in Nigeria. There are 2 volunteers who’s placements have not delivered
and really need some changes to take place or they will be looking for something new and Nik &
Christiana have already decided their placement is not for them and packed up and left.
Christiana returned to Lagos with me and is staying here and Nik went to Abuja and meet with
VSO to discuss options but it is most likely they will be heading home in a week.

I am very thankful for my placement and the positive relationship I have developed with Chief. I
know there will always be ups and downs but considering what other people are dealing with it
makes my frustrations seem so small. Speaking of frustrations one of mine should be resolved
shortly! Early next week I will be leaving Lagos and moving permanently to my home in Ilorin.
Chief will stay with me for about 10 days to help me get sorted then I will be on my own. I will be
returning to Lagos around Dec 23 for Christmas.

November 21, 2005
Viagra & HIV

By no means I am a medical professional of any kind, nor do I claim to be well versed in HIV, but I
am a somewhat logical thinker and somewhat informed. Therefore it is my personal opinion that
Viagra most certainly cannot prevent you from contracting HIV despite local medical doctors’
claims otherwise!!

A local television program caught my eye the other day as I was flipping channels. Did you know
that the plant from which the drug we know as Viagra is derived grows wild here in Nigeria?
Nope, neither did I until I tripped across this program. Locally the plant is called ‘key starter’, now I
don’t know if that is a botanical name or if it’s meant more literally due to it’s results. It was a talk
show where the host was interviewing a doctor on ways Viagra could prevent HIV. The doctor
claimed that among the obvious benefits of this plan enhancing your sex life it also did much to
boost your immune system. She stated that with this boosted immune system you would be less
likely to contract HIV.

Now she really had my attention!! Can you imagine if all there was to stopping this rapidly
spreading disease was to boost our immune systems?? Somehow the logical thinker in me tells
me it’s just not going to be that easy. And although I am sure having a strong immune system
has it’s merits it most certainly will NOT protect you in anyway against contracting HIV. But
unfortunately many people across Nigeria may have tuned into to that program and believed every
word of the good doctor.

Crazy ideas spread so easily over here when you have a population that for the most part does not
have a quality education to allow them to think for themselves and dis-believe such nonsense.
For example when a new bank note (denomination) is released here there is the belief among
some that you must sacrifice a child in order for the new note to bring you great fortune. Therefore
when recently they released a 1000 Naira note (currently the highest is 500) there was a rash of
child kidnappings. An 11 year old child was burned at the stake for attempting to kidnap a
toddler!! It’s hard to believe that common sense does not prevail but when these things are
ingrained in the culture they cannot see through it.

At the beach on Sunday we were offered Viagra ‘key starter’, 200 N a package, and an alternative
that was to help women ‘get going’. I took a picture of the package, front and back, you can see it
in the Tarquay Bay album. Luckily this vendor was making no claims other that it’s ability to make
you last ‘all day’. Although I’m sure if I had told him the doctors words then next time I return to the
beach he’d be going around selling it as a safe guard against HIV.

This weekend all the volunteers from the South of Nigeria will be traveling to Umahia where we
will attend a 2 day workshop in HIV/AIDS. It’s a mandate of VSO that all volunteers be involved in
AIDS Education and Sensitization. I hope to learn more than I know today so that I can accurately
inform the people I meet when given the opportunity to share with them correct information on the
subject. I will also be using HIV education material as the exercises my students will type in their
MS Word classes in hopes they will learn more than just Word from my instruction.

As a side note: this will be my last posting before I return from Umahia November 29th.

November 20, 2005
Paradise Uncovered

Weeks may be long and dull for me here but the weekends are packed full of fun & adventure. It’s
7pm on Sunday and I am completely exhausted and burnt out from the busy weekend.

As I mentioned in my earlier post some VSO’s came to town to run the ½ marathon. Over 40,000
ran the 21km on Saturday from CMS bus stop on VI to the Stadium near my home. I got to meet
Pete & Mary, and Charles on Friday when Chantal brought them over to pick up their numbers and
T-shirts. Saturday morning Charles and Pete set off from the starting line at 8am, just before
10am Chantal and Mary reported they crossed the 12km mark. At 10:30 I arrived at the Stadium
and met up with Deb & CJ and we headed into the stadium. Not long after we were at the finish
line to cheer for Charles as he crossed. After that everyone else found us and we were all there to
cheer Peter across about 15min later. To cool off and celebrate we went up to Ojaz for a drink and
to relax. After that we said good bye to Julius and Deb & CJ and the rest of us headed to the
Airport Hotel pool where Kim had been relaxing since 10am.

The pool was much quieter that last Sunday. It was really enjoyable, and since there was such a
large group of us we were not bothered. We enjoyed a long afternoon of relaxing in the sun and
dips in the pool. And most of all chatting and getting to know each other as Kim and I had never
met Pete & Mary, Charles, Ilsa & her boyfriend. Sutton joined us at the pool as well.

After the pool we all went our separate ways. Kim and I went to her place to grab her things then
began the journey to Chief’s. Along the way I persuaded Kim we should stop at Debonair’s for
PIZZA. It’s a fast food sort of chain, I think it might be American? It’s joined with Church’s
Chicken. Yum!! They do good pizza, lots of topping and lots of cheese! Mine had pepperoni,
mushroom, green pepper, & olives. We each only ate half and brought the rest home for a
midnight snack and breakfast.

Sunday morning at 10am Deb and CJ picked us up and we headed off to Tarquay Bay. We
crossed onto the VI and then chartered a small boat to take us to another small island and the
beach at Tarquay Bay. It’s a short 15min crossing through a major shipping lane and strong
current. The only 2 life jackets on board were occupied by the driver and his assistant. One of the
other passengers had a surfboard and I decided that’s what I would go for if we capsized.

As we rounded the rock wall into the Bay I was impressed, paradise was uncovered. There was
hardly anyone on the beach and rows of chair lined up just waiting for us. Deb and CJ lead us to
the far end of the beach where it’s quieter and they have made friends with the locals. Anything
we wanted was at our finger tips, just hiss and they will bring it to you!

There was some good shopping to be done and both Kim and I acquired Christmas gifts for our
sisters. Deb bought a lot of Christmas gifts and I saw some lovely things I would like to have but
just can’t afford at this point. We had peanuts to snack on and beers, or any other drink to quench
our thirst. A friend brought fresh coconuts and cracked them for Kim and I to sip then eat. Wow, it
was the best coconut meat I have ever tasted, so soft and juicy. At lunch we had suya (bbq beef)
and bbq chicken with plantain (fried banana). I threw lots of chicken bones to all the puppies who
came running.

The sand was soft and clean and the water was perfect. There was only a small surf, it was nice
for wandering out for a little swim whenever needing to cool off. It was a long beautiful day in
paradise. I think it was the best day yet, such a perfect escape for the craziness of Lagos. Kim
and I arranged accommodation of over Christmas and we will return with 3 other VSO’s to relax for
4 days on the beach. Better than I can describe are the pictures of Tarquay Bay in my photo album
& video.

November 17, 2005
BANG! & Moral Dilemma

Last night, around 8:30pm I was lying on my bed typing emails when I heard BANG! Followed
closely by a scream from Gloria the cook in the kitchen just behind my room. I looked up, BANG!
BANG! And out the window it lit up with a orange/yellow spark each time. Immediately I thought
back to Deb telling me of the shooting near here 2 Saturdays ago and I thought someone was
shooting at the neighbors. I wasn’t sure what I should do, stay put or go upstairs where Chief is.
To get up there I have to go up the steps which are outside and overlook the neighbor’s yard. I
wasn’t sure if this was safe. Eventually though my curiosity got the better of me and I bravely
stepped outside. Right away I could smell burnt. Gun powder? Wait…It’s electricity. Sure
enough, though we had power, and the neighbors on the other side, but the people next door had
no NEPA. The line was still crackling a little. Guess they blew something. But it was scary and
exciting for a minute!!

This weekend a few VSO’s are traveling to Lagos to run in the ½ marathon on Saturday. Charles,
Mary & Peter are coming from Rivers State and Ilse & her boyfriend from Abuja. Originally the 4 of
them were going to run, but now I believe it’s only Charles and Peter who will brave it. I was
asked if I could go to the stadium for them and collect their numbers and shirts as they had
registered online. I live only a 15min walk from the stadium so William (Chief’s assistant) and I
headed out around 3pm yesterday to go pick up the stuff.

I knew the office was to close at 4pm and thought we had lots of time. When we arrived at 3:20pm
I saw each ramp entrance to the stadium was ‘lined up’ with at least 30 people waiting to get their
stuff. I asked around to find out where I should go. The lines were based on last names of the
runners. Uh Oh, I don’t know the last name of Charles. But I did recall that Peter’s began with a
W so started there. The man helping me called up to the security guard on the ramp to assist
me. When I got up the ramp I could see the ‘line’ was more like a mob pressed against the gate
hoping to get through. The security guy raised his 2x4 post in the air and demanded they clear a
path for me. The crowd was not so obliging and I thought he was going to start beating them!!
Eventually a path was cleared and I was ushered through.

Then it came time to get the goods. They wanted to know why I didn’t have the proper internet
print out documents but all I had been emailed was the 1st name and password. They said it
was not good enough, I explained they were not in Lagos and had sent me and I lied and said
that the web site stated that all you need is the password. So they asked me for their
address…nope don’t know that either. Eventually they gave up and gave me Peter’s stuff, then
they said do you want Mary’s too? I had not been told to collect Mary’s, nor did I have her
password, but what the heck they gave it to me anyhow. As I was escorted back out through the
crowd there were cries of injustice that I did not wait all day in line like the rest of them.

I received a text with Charles last name and headed over to the B section where the same
process was repeated. I made it through that line after they had closed and told everyone no one
else would get their passes although it was only 3:50, guess they’d had enough for 1 day. As we
completed the task I thanked the man that helped me very much and then told William how guilty I
felt jumping the queue. I told the same to Chief when he returned home. He said I should not,
that visitors should get special treatment.

I’m having an internal battle on how I feel about this. No Nigerian would have been able to skip
the line, or collect the stuff without proper documentation and information, yet because of my skin
color I did. It’s not fair at all, and I know I took advantage. It makes me think back to the museum
wanting to charge me $1 rather than $.50 and really, now somehow it does seem fair if that’s the
price for getting to take advantage at other times. Does the balance make it ok? I hate having to
pay more for things, but is it a fair trade for the special treatment I often receive? I complain I want
to be treated like a Nigerian, to be accepted as one of them, friend, colleague, & neighbor, but
then how can I justify jumping the queue? It’s a moral dilemma for some thought.

November 13, 2005
Surreal Sunshine

Today was the day I’d been looking forward to! The day we were to go the Airport Hotel Pool. This
weekend I was headed to Kim’s for two reasons. 1. We were supposed to go out Saturday night
and 2. We were to go to the pool on Sunday. Plan #1 fell through when we could not find any
Nigerians to escort us and it was not safe to go alone, 4 Oweebo (white) women. But plan #2
today was more than I hoped!

At 10:30 am Kim and I left her place to go find the Airport hotel. The Airport used to be close to
Kim’s in Ikeja, hence the name of the hotel. It was only a 15min walk from her place. The gate fee
is 300N ($3) When we arrived there was almost no one there to our relief. We knew it was early
though and on Sundays it’s always quiet everywhere. We grabbed great seats and settled into
our books in the sun. Within 10min we were both dripping the sweat in the mid-day sun and
ready for a dip. We took turns going in the pool and watching our bags. When I dove in it was
pure heaven! I said to Kim when I got out “Kim, that was almost as good as cheese!” It was so
cool and refreshing and relaxing and perfect.

The pool is Olympic size which was very much to our advantage once more and more people
began to arrive. As many are not good swimmers and it’s 25 feet deep at the deep end it’s not too
busy. The shallow end on the other hand was unbelievably jam packed before long. I’ve posted a
picture to show how crazy it got by mid-afternoon, there were literally hundreds of people!

Sutton (the Canadian from Victoria) joined us around 12:30, she laughed when she walked up
and said you guys look so relaxed! And for the first few hours we really were, very relaxed and
enjoying ourselves. But later in the afternoon the place really began to get a bit crazy. It started
when Sutton and Kim went off to get us food and drinks. I was left relaxing and reading, but it
wasn’t long before I had to put my book down to take up a full time position guarding our seats. At
one point the pool manager even came over to assist me declaring that we came 1st and people
can not take the seats from me, one guy was not too happy about this and there was a little
shoving but it ended quickly enough. Then some guy came by and hissed in my ear “White
people kill” and quickly walked away. I gotta tell you Lagos is a crazy place on this earth!!
Thankfully Sutton & Kim returned and we enjoyed our suya (bbq beef covered the seasoning).

A short time later Sutton in alarm was dragging me out of my seat and I wasn’t really sure what
was going on…someone was drowning and dragged out of the pool. She knew I have my First
Aide and went with me to see if we should help. As we went over it was hitting me that this is the
real thing, I could actually have to assist and use my training for the 1st time. Wow was that a
scary thought! When we got to him he was not breathing and someone was giving him mouth to
mouth. I watched for a minute and he appeared to be doing it correctly. I was very thankful when
there was a breath and the drowned man began puking. At this point I did step in as they were not
putting him in the recovery position and he was choking. The man helping cleared his airway and
gave another breath. Again the man puked, again I said turn him on his side, and this time he
did. Sutton and I were sure the guy was breathing and the crowd was crushing in so we decided
it was time for us to leave. Back at our seats across the pool we watched the man eventually get
up and go to a seat. Unfortunately soon after he became very combative and they then removed
him from the pool area. He was drunk and had fallen in the deep end of the pool and could not
swim. I am very relieved that the man lived and very relieved that I did not have to perform artificial
respiration on him.

Not 5 minutes later a fight broke out at another part of the pool and there was more mayhem.
Sutton has been to the pool several times on Sunday and said this is the busiest and craziest she’
s seen it. The day was also full of brave young Nigerians wishing to make our acquaintance. We
did a pretty good job most the day at sending them off and managing to be peaceful in our corner.
There was one guy that seemed sincere about learning to swim and received a few tips from
Sutton and I on how to do the eggbeater.

All in all I think it was one of my most enjoyable days here. I’m not looking forward to trying to
sleep tonight with my sun burn, but I am looking forward to many more weekends at the eventful
Airport Hotel Pool.

November 11, 2005
Crazy Drivers

This morning walking home form the Internet Café I was hit by a car. Now before you go and have
a hear attack let me explain. The side mirror of the car took out my elbow. Much to my surprise
the driver actually noticed he hit me and slowed to wave in apology. My elbow only has a small
bruise as a result but this has lead me to believe the Chief more when he tells me all the time
how dangerous it is to be outside. The driving here really is pure madness!!

I’ll do my best to give you the picture of what it’s like but you can never imagine, trust me. For
those of you who were in Uganda, it’s 10 times worse here!!! There is no defensive driving, only
offensive.

If you are approaching from behind the rule is you honk. If you are changing lanes you just go
ahead without checking mirrors or signaling or looking over your shoulder. If you are cutting
someone off then it is the responsibility of that person to honk to let you know they are there. If you
want to merge into traffic you just put the nose of your car in where you want to go and hope the
guy you are butting in front of doesn’t hit you.

Last night I was on my way to dinner and this was the situation, we needed to make a U-turn, so
even though there was a lot of oncoming traffic we went ahead. The mini-bus approaching did not
choose to break and took out the corner of our car. CJ got out of the car, no major damage,
everyone goes on their way. This is just how it works, it explains why vehicles don’t look new very
long. People bump each other all the time and it’s just part of driving, everyone goes on their way.

Let me fill you in on how I met CJ. Once again I was walking home from the Internet, this is the
most eventful part of my days!! A car slowed and the driver called to me “Are you VSO??” I was
surprised and said, yes I am. He pulled off the road and explained that he has a friend who used
to be VSO and would like to meet current VSO’s. So he gave me her number and told me to
contact her if I like and off he went. So when I got home I send Deb Ball a text message
introducing myself. I got a text back from her that evening saying she’d love to meet me and did I
want to go to dinner Thurs evening. So we made plans for her to pick me at 6:30.

So last night she picked me up and we went for dinner. CJ was along and I found out he is
actually her husband, which is what she called him, but perhaps he is a boyfriend? They have
been together 3 years I think. She did a 2 year VSO placement here running a sports program
through the British Counsel. At the end she approached MTN (cell phone company) and asked for
funding to continue the program. They agreed to fund the program for another 2 years ending this
coming March. Her official title is Sports Coordinator for East & West Africa, but she says that
doesn’t actually mean much since the program is really just in Nigeria for now. But she is hoping
that in March she will have the opportunity to move to a different country and start up the program
there, perhaps Ghana?

We had a really nice dinner and it was good to hear her perspective on Nigeria. She told me that it
really is dangerous to be out at dark these days approaching Christmas. There have been stick-
ups on the roads after dark on a regular basis now. This time of year it’s always dangerous to be
on the roads. She also new the volunteer that lived in Kim’s house and that just before Christmas
she was robbed on her street corner walking home after dark. It’s good to hear these warnings
from someone other than Chief as I sort of tune him out thinking he’s just being over-protective.
Anyhow she lives very close to me, about 15min walk and said I can come over anytime and best
of all she said she has a tone of books I can borrow!!

November 9, 2005
No NEPA - Life Goes On

Well nothing too exciting has happened this week but since I haven’t written since the weekend I
thought I would just write about life around the house this week. There is still no NEPA, 8 days
now! The electrical company (government) is living up to it’s nickname: Never Expect Power
Always. So we have to use the generator when we want power, everyone has been using them so
much that there is no longer any diesel in this part of town! Chief usually turns on the power for 1
hour in the morning so the neighbors can come charge their phones and he can boil water etc.
Then it’s off till dark when we turn it back on till about 4am so that it’s cool enough to sleep.

So just for a change and to give myself something to do today I decided to cook dinner. Chief was
at a meeting on VI for most the day so I headed to the supermarket to get supplies.

On my way to the market a man came up to me. Introduced himself as Levi. Said he’s been really
wanting to meet me, has come to the house several times but the guard has send him away,
Tells me we need to talk. He has seen my beauty and has big plans for us!! I’m trying not to
laugh and be polite at this point. I tell him that Chief is my father and if he wants to see me he
must go through my father. He says “I am scared of the General (Chief was a general in the army)
and can’t we exchange numbers and meet?” I tell him I don’t have a phone yet. He says we really
must talk away from the Chief’s place! So I ask what do we have to talk about? He says that he
wants to marry me and we have much to discuss, many plans. So I told him that I have a
husband in Canada and that I am only here to work that I will not become involved with anyone.
This discussion went on for a while and once he was convinced I am not available he then asked
if I have a sister!! So I said yes, but she is married also, but I have a brother who is not married??
And laughed, he didn’t find it as funny. Anyway I told him we can be friends and if he sees me in
the street he can say hi but otherwise I have nothing to offer. And went on my way. That’s
marriage proposal #3 in 1 month, Kim’s doing better I think she’s up to 4!!

So I went and bought a whole frozen chicken and some creamy Chicken Tonight sauce and a can
of mushrooms I found at the supermarket. I thawed the chicken and at 4pm went to de-bone it.
This turned out to be harder than I thought!! After 1 leg I asked Gloria the cook to help. She’d
been standing watching me trying to figure out when the hell I was doing to the chicken. Eating
the bones is a favorite thing here. So between the two of us we got as much meat as we could off
the chicken. The pile of non-meat was much larger than the meat. I told Gloria she could do what
she wants with it and she eagerly gathered into a bowl. I had her make the rice and I stared frying
the chicken in vegetable oil. I added purple onions, then the Chicken Tonight sauce which had
carrots in it, added a spoonful of pepe (puréed hot peppers) and let it simmer. At the end I added
the mushrooms and leftover cooked spinach from lunch.

I wasn’t sure how it was going to go over with the chief as he only likes Nigerian food. So when
he came home and heard I was cooking he quickly ate some pounded yam left over from lunch! I
scolded him and told him that just like he makes me eat lots of his food I am going to make him
eat mine! He said no worries the pounded yam was just an appetizer. In the end I think he
actually did like it. At the very least he was really impressed that I took the initiative to cook. By the
time dinner was over he decided that I should cook once a week and that he will now visit Ilorin
lots for my cooking! I think I’ve created a monster. Oh well, at least I can have some say in what I
eat if I am cooking. I told him that this would include pasta and he said bring it on! So I told him
next week I am cooking macaroni and cheese with wieners!!! He laughed but I am serious! I
found two boxes of Kraft Dinner at the supermarket and a can of wieners so KD coming right up!!

November 5, 2005
Cheese!!!!

If there is cheese in this country you know that I am going to find it. Last night I discovered cheese
heaven and indulged like I may never see cheese again. For those of you who don’t know me so
well: I LOVE CHEESE!! It’s the best thing ever and I can’t get enough.

Last night Chief promised to take Kim and I to dinner. He invited his good friend Bummi (Bow-
mee) and she suggested Lebanese food. As much was I enjoy that type of food I was craving
something more western after all the Nigerian food I eat everyday. So I asked if there were any
other options. So off we went to VI (Victoria Island) to the Eko hotel where they have Buffet and a la
Carte. When I walked in and saw the buffet I knew we’d come to the right place, they had a
cheese platter!!! Wow did I eat last night, in between each course I had a plate of cheese. I
started with cheese, prawns, tomato stuffed with tuna, fresh bread, & deli meats. Round 2: baked
pasta with cheese. Round 3: Seafood salad and more cheese. Round 4: Burrito with melted
cheese. Round 5: more cheese, hummus, & seafood salad. Round 6: Chocolate mouse and
dipped cheese in it. Round 7: honey cruller (donut). Round 8: just a bit more cheese. See the
pictures in the November album.

The restaurant had sort of a sports theme and next to our table was a hockey theme. So I had to
have my picture taken with the hockey guy. Note he wore his pads on the outside of his jersey?
Pretty funny.

After dinner we came back to Surulere (home) and went to our neighbor’s club. The club wasn’t
really happening there was only about 5 people there so we just stayed for 1 drink and danced a
little.

I also took a picture yesterday of Chief’s son Moses and his friends the identical twins Taiwo &
Kehinde. I don’t know the name of the other guy in the photo. I mentioned that I’ve met a lot of
Taiwo’s and I was told Taiwo means twin and that all Taiwo’s are twins. This includes the driver,
Tiye who’s full name is Taiwo. Taiwo & Kehinde have been having fun with tricking us so that we
can’t tell them apart. I think Taiwo has a rounder face than Kehinde, but last night they really threw
me so now I’m very confused. They are the sons of a friend of the Chief’s. They are all 24 and in
University which is on semester break right now.

November 3, 2005
Visiting Ikeja

Tuesday night after a large dinner of pounded yam and chicken and tons of papaya and coconut I
had Tiye drive me to Kim’s in Ikeja. The drive took us an hour and 1/2, the longest yet. The roads
were crazy with everyone trying to get to their families for the holidays. Complete grid lock with
people pulling crazy maneuvers left and right. Even Tiye decided to drive down the median for a
while, I scolded him and told him there was no hurry but he didn’t seem to mind.

At Kim’s we experienced some real Nigeria. Her power was out, her water was out, and her gas
was out (gas is for cooking). So that means no way to cool off, no way to boil water for drinking,
can’t flush the toilet etc. I knew the situation before I came. She was thinking that maybe I wouldn’
t want to come anymore, but I told her that if she has to deal with it then so can I. Besides I was
dieing for a break for the routine at Chief’s. Luckily Wednesday morning the NEPA (power)
returned and her boss, Sam, showed up with his extra gas tank for us. So the only thing missing
is water. There is a tap out front so now that we can boil water etc it’s not so bad. I’m quite used
to bucket bathing.

Around 11:30am Dapo, a co-worker of Kim’s, picked us up to take us to the Lagos Museum. I
was looking forward to this, my 1st trip to Victoria Island, true downtown Lagos. After he picked us
he said that he was going to bring his cousins too and that we would grab them along the way.
Well turns out there were 5 cousins and we were in a small Honda Civic. No problem 5 in the
back and a coughing sneezing little girl for Kim’s lap in the front! You should have seen her face,
this little girl maybe 3 and ½, her name was Dammy, she was petrified of us white girls!! Off we
went. To get to VI you have to cross the longest bridge in West Africa, it is pretty long, maybe 3x
Kelowna’s. The water of the ocean looked pretty muddy and marshy between the island and
mainland, and there were lots of little shacks on stilts.

We arrived at the museum and Dapo went to pay, at the counter he was informed that white
people have to pay double. Dapo works with Kim at CLO, a human rights organization, and was
going to have none of this. I know that we always end up paying more for stuff but this was the
1st time I’ve ever had someone say to my face the price is different because of the color of my
skin. I just think of how hard the African Americans have worked for equality in the States and
think they would be upset this still happens in their homeland. Although I guess it’s good to get a
taste of maybe a little how they’ve felt. It just seems so crazy, I’m no different than the man
standing next to me but because my skin is different I am treated different. Come to think of it I
guess too often it’s to my advantage I look different. Anyway it way it’s just very in my face,
something to think about.

Dapo’s argument was that if there is a different price then it would be stated on the ticket, which it’
s not. In the end he agreed to pay full price for Kim and I, but then said that he would pay nothing
for himself and 1 cousin, in the end paying the amount as if we were all black. Not sure how he
got away with that, but he did.
We were also able to then verify that if you want to export any art (carvings etc) you have to have an
Export Certificate. I asked how much? Depends on the size, weight, and what you paid for what
you are exporting. This doesn’t make sense to me, but I guess it’s the way it goes, turns out the
stuff I bought will cost me almost double to mail!! I’ll be keeping that to a minimum.

We hit a small art gallery and a mall called Mega Plaza, currently being rebuilt after a recent
bombing. The stores at Mega Plaza were all very, very expensive, nice stuff, and full of non-
Nigerians. We didn’t stay long as we quickly established Kim and I can’t afford any of that stuff.
There was a supermarket next door where we splurged on a few things for the get-together today.
I bought cheese and Hazelnut flavored coffee-mate!!

After that we dropped the kids off and on our way I recognized this was Lola’s neighborhood so
we poked our heads in to say hello. She was so surprised and happy to see us. Lola’s brother
looked so uncomfortable when we dropped in, I think he knows that Lola told me he has a crush
on me, he said I’m the most beautiful girl he’s ever seen! Although I think I’m probably just the
only white girl he’s ever met. After Lola’s we went to the market and Dapo and his cousin helped
us get veg, and final stop for the day we bought some DVDs. New into the country are DVDs with
5 movies on them. The quality is usually good and there’s a good selection. I got the “Wedding
Collection” Wedding Singer, 4 Weddings a Funeral, Wedding Planner, The Wedding Date, we
watched one that night and unfortunately the sound was way off the timing of the movie. But the
other discs: The Sandra Bullock collection and the Ethan Hawk collection are good. They cost
800# each that’s about 8 dollars, good deal, but also expensive cause that’s more than a day’s
pay for me!! So a bit of a treat. This morning I was able to return the defunct disk and got
Wedding Crashers, Dukes of Hazard, & Ladder 49 on VCD, plus 200# back.

Today the power was out again till 5pm. We did some final shopping in the morning and were
just taking a breather when people started arriving, much earlier than expected. The group
consisted of: Julius from Uganda, Joseph from Kenya, Chantal & Jan (yon) from Netherlands, and
Dapo brought his cousin and a Canadian human rights journalist. Sutton is from Victoria, she’s
my age and been here for 3 months now. It was nice to meet another Canadian and she was very
appreciative of my cheese! I didn’t get to talk to her too much cause I was cooking for everyone
and alternating with running to the bathroom sick. My stomach is the worst it’s been today, luckily
my cold is starting to get better. I cooked pasta with tomato-veg sauce from scratch, it was a hit
with everyone but the Nigerians who complained there was no pepe (hot, hot peper). I even had
added 2 pepe, but it was still mild by their standards. When Sutton walked in she said “I smell
Oweebo food!”(Oweebo = White Man). We also put out the cheese and crackers, sliced tomato
seasoned with basil S & P, and pineapple and served warm beer since there was no power to run
the fridge all day.

Everyone left by 4:30 and I was glad cause all the shopping and cooking and being sick was
exhausting and I needed the break. Kim and I tackled the cleaning up then put our feet up and
watched Wedding Crashers and finished off the cheese. Now here I am writing my thoughts, Kim
is doing the same and blasting great country music. How lucky to be friends with a Texan who
loves country too!!

November 1, 2005
Church and Fasting

On Sunday around 11am I went to get Kim, we changed into our Nigerian outfits, hopped into the
limo, and headed off to church. The church was in a town about an hour and a half’s drive out of
Lagos. The King had come and he and the Chief were in the Mercedes. Chief had told us that
everyone would be wearing white, but until we arrived I couldn’t really picture it. There were
thousands of people and everyone really was wearing white gowns and the women with white
hats. Chief was agitated about us running late and Kim and I couldn’t figure out why since
everything and everyone is always late. Well it made sense when we got there. Everyone was
waiting for us.

We were escorted to the front and given special seats. Kim and I had to enter on one side of the
church, the woman’s side, and the men on the other, Many people then came to pay respect to
the King and Chief. Oh and before we could come into the church they made us take off our
shoes and made me cover my head.

Shortly after we were seated the service began. The program indicated this was the 32nd
anniversary of the Harvest. Everyone had brought some of their crop, yams, oranges, money,
bread, whatever you had. The music started and we were told to come dance to honor God. So in
front of the entire congregation we had to get up and dance at the front of the church. While we
were dancing people threw money at us which was then collected as tithe. It was all rather
bewildering. I’ve included a movie that sort of shows you what was going on. After we were
finished, group by group, everyone had a chance to come dance and give money.

After that there was some talking which was not in English, then Chief was invited to say a few
words. He really loves the spot light and had a lot to say. He told the story of how 32 years ago
the pastor didn’t even have 30 niara (about 35 cents) to pay his rent. But God told him to build a
church on the marshy land. Chief asked him, why not there on the hill, and the pastor said no,
God told him in the swamp. So he built the church we are in today and it has thousands of
members now etc.

After that the pastor went up on the pulpit and began the sermon, there was an English translator
but we still could not understand a word. At 5pm Chief said it was time to go. We went outside
and were fed chicken and rice before getting back in our cars and heading home to Lagos. On
the way home we passed another accident with 2 more bodies on the road. It’s so horrible here
all the accidents.

Church wasn’t really what I was expecting. I had hoped for more singing and music since they are
so good at that. It was an interesting experience though.

Yesterday there was no power all day so after my laptop battery died in the morning I was pretty
bored. I tried to get the Chief to let me go for a walk to the store but he said no. I was allowed to
accompany the office manager William to buy soda and beer and that burnt about an hour. Then I
read till the power came back at 9pm.

When there is power I’ve been watching The Sopranos. Finished the 1st season last night.
Overnight there was a huge storm, the rain was very loud. The a/c is out so it was 28.5 degrees +
humidity in my room. This morning I have the sniffles and a bit of a sore throat. I walked in light
rain to the Internet café this morning and home again. Now the power is out again and it’s
pouring.

Today the Chief and I are fasting. This is the last day of Ramadan, the next two days are holiday.
The Muslims have been fasting for a month and starting tomorrow they will celebrate and eat.
Nigerians are very very serious about their religions. But they are also very respectful of each
other’s religions. In a country so divided by Islam & Christianity it’s a really really good thing that
they are incredibly respectful. Yes, there are always the extremists in every situation, but for the
most part it’s a peaceful co-existence. So out of respect for his mother who was a Muslim and
many friends Chief decided to fast along with them today. Not that I have much say in the matter
but I said I would join him. At 6pm we will feast.

After dinner I will head to Kim’s to stay with her over the holiday. She’s invited all the VSO’s in
Lagos to come over on Thursday so we can meet everyone. This sounds like an occasion for
cheese to me! So I am taking one of my blocks of brie with me. (yes, I brought cheese to Nigeria).
I don’t know if Internet places will be open over the holiday so you may not hear from me again till
the weekend.