Journal

May 29, 2006
Lovin Nigeria

Too often it’s easy to write about the bad things that happen, they always seem more exciting than
the good and make for better stories. For example it would be easy to write today and complain
about how I have been home sick with a cold for the last 3 days, which is not much fun, especially
on a long weekend. Add to that there has been no power for 3 days and my laptop battery died on
day 1, I’ve finished all the books I can find and I am bored out of my mind.

But I think it’s important to tell you that despite all that I wouldn’t rather be anywhere else on earth.
I really do love this place. The people are really wonderful, I just have a cold but everyone is
worried about me and wants to take me to the hospital! My favorite greeting the past 3 days is:
“How dey body?” my response: “The body dey still sick but I be fine”.

I’ve been asked recently by some friends at home, and by a newspaper reporter here, why am I in
Nigeria? Do I miss home? How do I compare Canada to Nigeria? It’s given me lots of
opportunity to talk about my thoughts and also to realize the answers myself. I think I love it here
because here you really have to live everyday. There are so many daily challenges to overcome
that fuel me and each time I get something done I feel a sense of great accomplishment because
nothing comes easy.

Yes, of course I miss home, but it’s just the people I miss. It would be perfect if Canada was
close enough to visit on weekends. Or if it was easy for my friends and family to come visit me
here every once in a while. I am working hard to convince everyone that you should come visit
me! Or even try living here with me for a while to really get the feel for it. Anyhow I just wanted to
make it clear to everyone that all the little disasters I write about are the daily challenges that I
love. I wouldn’t have it any other way. And I am very happy to be here.

Rat Update:
Yesterday Bisola woke to find her house in disarray. A full loaf of bread was ½ gone and had
traveled from the living room to the dining room. 20 pieces of meat left to cool on the kitchen
counter were now just 15 and scattered around she’s discovering meat hidden in corners. So is
seems my lack of Rat is due to the full feast available in the apartment below me. So last night I
leant her my trap, set with bread, and this morning once again there is no sign of the bread and
no snapped Rat. The Rat hunt continues.

May 22, 2006
Missing Clothes

After several items of clothing and other things have gone missing from my apartment, yesterday I
was forced to face who the thief is. It’s not fun when you realize someone you thought was a
friend is stealing from you.

Over the last few months I’ve noticed small things missing. I am not the type of person who ever
misplaces or looses anything. I am too obsessively organized and like routine too much. I also
have a very good memory of where I saw or put something last. But as things went missing I have
been telling myself that just maybe I am misplacing things in my old age (turning 30 this year is
traumatizing).

1st it was a brand new wash cloth in the bathroom, gone from where I hung it. But I didn’t care
much. Then my running pants, these I miss very much. I last had them when in Kabba and
asked if I left them behind, but I did not. Then cookies and things from the kitchen. The last week
one of my Old Nay t-shirts that I wear a lot. And finally yesterday I noticed one of my best yellow
party shirts that I have not even worn once here and was saving for a special occasion. So I know
that there was no possibility I misplaced it as it was not worn and I know exactly where I put it.

When I noticed these things I asked the girl who cleans for me: did you borrow it? She always
says no, so I tell her ok it’s missing please look for it while you clean. I did this hoping she would
return things. But no luck. Yesterday when I discovered the missing yellow shirt it was the last
straw. I can’t have her in my house anymore and now I know that it can’t be anyone but her since
she is the only person who has ever set foot in my bedroom. I’d also come up from the office to
check on her recently to discover the door locked and I had to bang several times to get her to
open it. There is not reason for her to be locking the door.

So this week I have a new cleaner starting who works in the office for us and is so far trust worthy.
Bisola is going to confront Shun for me and demand to go with her to her house to look for my
missing clothes. I am really sad and disappointed cause this seemed like a nice girl, she’s 17
and did a good job cleaning. It sucks when you find out you can’t trust someone. She would have
made a lot off me through cleaning every week, a lot more than the clothes are worth and now she’
s ruined her reputation and will get no more money or work from any of us.

On to Rat – no Rat. Bread is gone again. I am thinking maybe it’s the monster sized cockroaches
who are taking the bread and leaving the trap set? No Rat spotting all weekend and I was
around. So am torn do I keep trying to catch Rat and feeding some creature?

May 19 2006
Rat Lives

Well they told me that Nigerian Rats are very smart, and I didn’t believe them. But it would seem
that my Rat is a tricky little rat. So maybe Nigerian rats are smarter than your average rat?

On Sunday I bought a traditional mouse trap – Rat sized. I know it works cause I got my finger
snapped in it *ouch*. The first night I tried cooked pasta – no Rat. Second night cabbage – no
Rat. Third night bought bread – in the morning the bread was gone – no Rat. Fourth night bread
again – gone again - no Rat. Attempted to make the trap more sensitive and that’s when I
snapped my finger. That night bread stayed – no Rat. Fifth night Lola gave me some fish since
apparently Rat visited them and ate ½ a loaf of bread and some fish. No wonder Rat wasn’t
hungry for my bread! This morning – fish is still there – no Rat. Guess I’ll just keep trying.

Last night when it was starting to get dark I was bored having finished every book in sight again.
So I decided to go sit out front with the girls working the SATCOM payphones. It didn’t take long to
find some fun. A girl came by offering to do henna tattoos. For 50niara she would do a hand or
foot, we all got painted and I did both my feet and my left hand. I was expecting something like the
East Indian Henna you see around home but this turned out much different. It’s most definitely
African looking. It’s a dark black rather than brown and the lines are much thicker, the designs are
also more primitive. I’ve uploaded some pictures so you can see what it’s like along with my new
Nigerian “lace” dress.

May 11 2006
Return of Rat

I had been very happy that Rat had moved to a new home since I have not had an encounter in
some weeks. But then I haven’t been around home too much either. So I was sure the problem
was resolved. All holes blocked and sealed = no more Rat. Well I was wrong.

Not two minutes ago I had a face to face with Rat. It’s just after 7:30pm and I was on my couch
reading when the power went out. Shortly before it went dark I thought I heard some squeaking
from the kitchen but just assumed it was one of the giant cockroaches. Then the light went so I
decided it was time to use the light of my cell phone to put my sliced pineapple in the fridge and
light a candle. I walked into the kitchen and to the sink to drop my fork then turned around and
headed to the fridge, that’s when Rat and I came face to face as it ran from my counter over the top
of the fridge and down the back. Meanwhile I let out three muffled screams since I was carrying
my cell phone in my mouth to light the way.

After hoping around uselessly for a minute I regained my senses and put the fruit in the fridge. I
then reexamined my kitchen and decided that my hanging basket was not hanging high enough
and moved it. And put the onions into a tightly closed cupboard just in case. I then braved walking
past the fridge out of the kitchen for the night and turned on my computer to type this tail. As I type I
am on the couch with feet up as thoughts of Rat running past are filling my head. Not sure what to
do next about Rat.

Today was a productive day. I taught a 9-11am class then went with the office assistant to Police
headquarters to meet the Police Commissioner and to visit the Permanent Secretary for the
Governor. These are both very powerful men and I wasn’t sure how we would be received but we
were given a warm welcome and both seemed to be very interested in the computer training. The
Permanent Secretary even signed up for the course himself!! He said he would tell everyone he
can to come for the training and would send his children. The police have a mandate currently to
make all the officers computer literate, they have already begun this process but it looks like they
will send business our way too. We have to return tomorrow for their decision on how to proceed.

Both of these are a big step for us as we need students badly. We decided to send these letters
out over three weeks ago which was when I offered to go in person incase it would help, but it’s
taken till now for the manager to get the letters ready. This was frustrating for me since classes
are starting this week and we really needed these weeks ago. I even tried doing it myself but I
was not welcomed and firmly sent away. Anyhow I am glad it’s done now and hopefully the
results will be positive.

May 9th 2006
Lagos Weekend

I have just returned from an extended weekend in Lagos with Panni and I am exhausted, but I
have so many stories to tell I need to start writing it all down before I forget! I didn’t want to leave
Lagos today, but my homecoming was sweetened by the warm welcome I received when I got
here. You would have thought I was away for months! Hugs and cheers and being led into the
building holding the hands of Bisola and Abdul. It really means a lot to know people here care
about me.

Weekend Highlights:
High point: sun and shopping at Tarqway Bay
Low point: not being able to get the things Kim left me from Chief’s house
Most interesting moment: trip to the Ajigunle slums
Most unexpected moment: having a hyena jump on the car I was in
Best food: pizza a la Panni

Friday I managed to make it into Lagos around 9pm and catch a bus and okada motor bike taxi to
Panni’s home in Ikeja. It’s not far from where Kim used to live and I had no problems finding the
place. I made the trip to Lagos in a Peugeot car, had the front seat, and was very comfortable.
Panni welcomed me with a pita & hummus, feta cheese, blue cheese, & cheddar cheese spread.
It was lovely.

Saturday morning we were picked up by Panni’s boss and a film director to head to the slums of
Ajigunle. Panni’s NGO: CFC(Communicating For Change) is making a movie there focusing on
the life of one man to submit to a UN conference coming up in Vancouver. It was very interesting
seeing one of Lagos slums and how people are living and here the stories of this man’s life.
Panni entertained the neighborhood children and adults with her camera and got some really
great shots which I have posted to my photo album.

To add extreme contrast to our day when we were finished with the interview we went for ice
cream then for lunch with some of Panni’s friends in VI(Victoria Island). This is the upper class of
Lagos. Panni’s friend had a French cook who made us a lovely lunch in the family’s beautiful
home. After lunch we fought the Go Slow (traffic) home to Ikeja where we made pizza with wine
and had a relaxing evening.

Sunday is beach day. Tarqway was lovely like usual. Despite sitting all day in the shade with
30spf lotion I still got a serious sun burn. The shopping was fantastic and we both spent entirely
too much money. We could see clouds in the distance and heard it was raining back in Lagos but
the beach seemed to be this protected little oasis of sunshine all day till 4pm. Then the storm hit,
it snuck up behind us and we didn’t see it coming till we felt like we were in a hurricane and went
running to the shack behind us for shelter and to wait out the storm. After about 30min the rain
slowed and so did the wind making it safe enough to take a boat back to the mainland. It was still
raining during the trip so we were very wet and cold by the time we arrived. Luckily we made
some friends while hiding out the storm who were also headed to Ikeja and gave us a ride home.
That night it was warm showers, leftover pizza, and early to bed.

Monday Panni had to work and my goal was to get to Surulere to pick up my things from Chief’s
that Kim had left for me. The guys we met at Tarqway were very generous and offered to drive
me. Unfortunately when we arrived Chief was not around, all the staff was new, and no one knew
where my things were. We waited an hour for Chief or the secretary to return then gave up and
headed back to Ikeja. I am really upset about this because I had asked Chief twice to bring my
things when he came to Ilorin and since that didn’t happen, I planned this trip to I could get them
and asked him to leave it with the gateman so I could pick it up. Now I am not sure how I will get
them.

On our way back to Ikeja much to my surprise I saw a man in a leather skirt walking a hyena down
the street! Then I noticed up ahead there were also 5 very large baboons and another hyena. I
have never seen a hyena in Africa before and they are 5 times bigger than they appear on the
Discovery channel. This thing was huge! We slowed down so my friend could take a picture for
me with his camera phone. The man led the hyena in front of us and had it jump up and attack
him. The hyena was growling and incredibly strong. Then of course the man wanted money so
we offered him 100 which is very fair but he refused less than 1000. There was no way we were
going to pay that so he had the hyena start attacking the car! Our only escape was to back way up
down a busy road in gridlocked rush hour traffic, but it worked and we escaped the crazy man and
his hyena. I remember seeing pictures of these guys on the internet before coming to Nigeria.
They are pretty freaky.

That night after dinner we headed to the Londoner with our new friends for a few beers followed by
a quick trip to the night club Shrine for one round and then a quick suya snack and home to bed.
These guys are really kind and we enjoyed their company. The one who drove me to Surulere
even offered to give me a ride to the bus this morning and went out of his way to ensure I was well
taken care of. After so much fun and having a great time with Panni it was so hard to say
goodbye. As much as I love Ilorin it just doesn’t have the friends and fun of Lagos. End.

If anyone is interested in learning more about the short film CFC is doing for the UN Conference
in Vancouver I would be happy to send it your way. They are also looking for donations to help pay
for the plane tickets to get 3 of them to the conference.

May 2, 2006
Weekend in Osogbo

Yesterday I returned from my second visit to Osogbo. Since may 1st is Labor Day holiday here
Panni and I decided to meet up for the weekend. Osogbo is only a 2hr trip for me and 3hrs for
Panni from Lagos so it made an easy middle point for us to meet and gave us a chance to visit
Shuha and, the new Volunteer who has just arrived from India, Paul.

We arrived Saturday afternoon and after a few hours catching up with Shuha and Paul we headed
to the craft shops. I had hoped to order a carving I spotted last time unfortunately the price went
up from 6000 to 8000 ($80) so I didn’t buy it this time. After the carving place, Genesis, Shuha
took us to meet a man who does batiks. He had some really nice work and Panni ordered a table
cloth. Panni and I then walked another gallery but it’s very expensive so we just looked around till
we noticed a storm rolling in and hit the road back to Shuha’s. We managed to beat the storm
home and enjoyed a good walk with the wind to cool us. We were then treated to egg curry thanks
to Paul. The flavor was great but I am such a wimp with spicy food and my tummy complained a
little.

Sunday Panni and I enjoyed a leisurely morning with our coffees before heading out at 10am to
the Osun Shrine. After a tour of the shrine we decided to spend some time relaxing on the edge of
the river and enjoying the beautiful nature. Our taxi driver was rather dismayed as he wanted to be
on his way so we sent him off to return a few hours later for us. We settled on some rocks and
watched the fish jump, monkeys in the trees above us, and beautiful birds fly by as we pondered
life and how we got here.

After shrine and some lunch we walked around the heart of Osogbo and did some shopping for
CDs and material. I bought material to have 2 outfits made for myself in Nigerian styles. Then we
attempted to find the restaurant I had been to before. We thought the name was African Kitchen
and only knew the general direction. We hopped on Okadas (motorbikes) who claimed to know
the place and off we went on what ended up being probably a good 40min tour of the outskirts of
Osogbo. I was enjoying the ride but starting to get worried about the price of our adventure when
we finally found the place. I think we asked for directions at least 5 times. It turns out the name is
Ojubo Ikun, “Authentic African Kitchen” being the description under the sign. Ojubo Ikun means:
Shrine of the Stomach.

After paying our okadas and sending them off we discovered the restaurant isn’t even open on
Sundays! I explained to the owner that we did not want food only a cold drink of the patio
overlooking the city and he welcomed us in. We ordered drinks but he insisted we taste his Palm
Wine. Since the drinks were warm and the “taste” of palm wine was really a jug of very cold and
rather tasty concoction we sent our drinks back. The palm wine was like lemonade, but different
and didn’t taste like it had much alcohol in it. We enjoyed the next few hours of conversation,
occasionally joined by the friendly owner, and sipped our palm wine till the light began to fade. He
did not allow us to pay him anything for our afternoon on his patio and was so kind to us. I highly
recommend to anyone visiting Osogbo you pay him a visit.

That night unfortunately the small upset stomach I had been experiencing for about a day & ½
turned into a full fledged painful endless night in the bathroom. I think it’s the worst stomach
problem I’ve had in my life let alone Nigeria. I can’t figure what caused it since Panni and I ate
pretty much the same food all weekend with the exception of some well-cooked chicken I had at a
very clean fast food place. In the morning after some re-hydration salts from Shuha and Imodium
from Panni I deemed it safe to travel the 2hrs home.

Unfortunately the trip home was not as lacking in events as my previous journeys have been. I
was ½ asleep listening to the men around me arguing loudly about something to do with Nigeria
when suddenly it was the women I could hear over the men crying out to God. That and a big
bump made me raise my head to see we were no longer on the road but rushing off into quickly
approaching trees. Visions of us flipping or hitting a tree went through my head but our driver
managed to keep control and stop the bus. As we all rushed out of the bus I looked behind to see
what had caused us to leave the road and saw another vehicle that did flip over and people trying
to crawl out of it as the engine caught fire. All the men rushed to help pull people out and use tree
branches to swat out the fire. Everyone seemed to be ok which is really incredible considering the
state of their vehicle. It’s really quite scary to have a close call like this and considering I was not
feeling well anyhow I just wanted to sit down and cry. Luckily I managed not to since I knew it
would attract a lot of attention if the oyibo girl started crying. We were all rather alert for the rest of
our trip home which was thankfully without incident.